Down

Down is more than a position change. Lying down is a relaxed posture for most dogs, so a fluent down is a direct route to a calmer dog in cafés, at the vet, and when guests visit.

It usually takes a little longer to teach than sit, because lying down makes a dog feel more exposed. Some dogs, especially nervous or long-legged ones, are reluctant at first. A comfortable surface and patient luring solve most of it.

Down is also the starting point for several tricks in the library, including roll over, crawl, and play dead.

Keep your dog comfortable: a mat or rug beats cold tiles, and a dog that suddenly refuses to lie down may be sore rather than stubborn.

Dog lowers its elbows and chest to the floor and holds the position until released.

Why it matters: Down helps a dog settle in busy places and is a prerequisite for several advanced tricks and for Place.

Estimated time: 4-10 days

Also called: down, lie down

Verbal cues: down

Hand signal: Flat palm facing the floor, lowered from chest height.

Prerequisites: Sit is helpful but optional

Supplies: small soft treats, mat or rug with some grip

Age suitability: Any age; keep sessions short for puppies and seniors.

Physical suitability: Use soft or non-slip surfaces for dogs with joint sensitivity. Dogs with elbow or hip problems may lie down slowly — let them.

• 1. Lure from sit to the floor With your dog sitting, hold a treat at its nose and slowly lower it straight down between its front paws, then a little forward along the floor. Mark the moment the elbows touch down. Success: Dog follows the lure into a down most of the time. Typical time: 1-3 sessions
• 2. Reward partial lowers if needed If the dog stands up or won't go all the way, mark and reward a head dip, then a shoulder dip, then elbows halfway, until you reach the full down. Success: Dog goes a little further down each set. Typical time: 1-3 sessions
• 3. Fade the lure into a hand signal Make the same downward movement with an empty hand and reward from your other hand. Gradually make the movement smaller and stand more upright. Success: Dog lies down to the hand signal while you stand. Typical time: 2-4 sessions
• 4. Add the verbal cue and a release Say "down" once, pause, then give the hand signal. Reward in position, then release. Build duration a few seconds at a time. Success: Dog lies down on the word alone and stays until released. Typical time: 3-7 sessions
• 5. Practise from a stand and in new places Ask for down when the dog is standing, not just sitting, and practise on different surfaces and in new locations. Success: Dog downs from a stand in three or more places. Typical time: 1-2 weeks of everyday practice

• Luring too far forward Why it happens: Trying to get the down quickly Fix: Lower the lure straight down first, then only slightly forward, or the dog will stand up and follow it.
• Pushing on shoulders or pulling legs forward Why it happens: Frustration with slow progress Fix: Physical pressure makes lying down feel less safe. Reward partial lowers instead.
• Using "down" for "get off the sofa" as well Why it happens: Everyday language Fix: Keep "down" for lie down and use "off" for getting off furniture or people.

• Dog refuses to lie down Likely cause: Uncomfortable surface, anxiety, or pain Remedy: Switch to a soft mat, train somewhere calmer, and reward partial lowers. See a vet if reluctance is new.
• Dog stands up to follow the lure Likely cause: Lure moving forward too early or too fast Remedy: Move the lure straight down and more slowly; keep it close to the nose.
• Dog pops back up as soon as it lies down Likely cause: Treat delivered too late or no release cue taught Remedy: Place the treat between the front paws while the dog is down, then release.
• Only lies down from sit Likely cause: Sit has become part of the cue Remedy: Practise from a stand with a lower, slower lure.

Generalise down across surfaces (carpet, grass, a mat in a café) before adding distance or distractions. For busy places, a mat your dog already knows makes lying down much easier.